Day 4: to Baiona

Breakfast at the hotel was ample. Many other pilgrims had also stayed there as there are less mid-range accommodation on this stretch. A couple turned out to be from Australia and he asked me if I had any Vegemite. He said the weren't sold in squeeze tubes anymore. I had to admit I don't even consume the stuff at home, contrary to stereotype. No dislike of it, mind you. I suppose if you are used to having it for brekkie…

On one of the elevated stretches of the path that deviated from the main road was this collection of stones and other "offerings" by pilgrims. Some labelled as "I'm doing this for you, hope you get better, mum" for example. Others were more frivolous. How do people know about this spot? I guess word gets around and it gets mentions in itineraries.

Now follow a series of photos from the oceanside path. Here I liked the view of the distant coastline to the south.

Juxtaposed with farmland.

Hazy coastline looking to the north.

Eroding rocks.

Powerful waves.

On many stretches there were no other pilgrims in sight; I had the path all to myself, for a while anyway.

Those plumed plants stand out among the vegetation.

But it seems they are the invasive pampas grass.

As we approached the headland which marks the "knee" of Galicia, I wondered if our path would go around the hill.

Oh well, enjoy the ocean coast while it lasts.

And the beautiful sunshine giving shape to the rocks.

Somebody pointed out some shags sunning on the rocks. It was one of the few times I wished I had used my compact camera with the zoom lens. But the best camera is the one that's most handy so I settled for the phone pictures.

Soon enough my question about the headland was answered by the route. We crossed the coastal road, saying goodbye to Yellow Concrete Roads, and ascended a path that cut across the corner to the north shore of the "knee", towards Baiona.

The forest path looked like this.

Looking back from the height.

Another hour's walking, including a rest stop at a cafe found me on the outskirts of Baiona. I think the distant island is one of the Islas Cies.

I had chatted part of the way with a Portuguese woman who had spent her childhood in South Africa but was now back in Lisbon. She was in a group with her sister and brother-in-law who lived in Western Australia. I met all three of them at the cafe.

Somewhere around here they decided to take the low (coastal) road, while I decided to follow the arrows for the high road.

Lots of vacation accommodation on the coast. Tourism is a major earner.

By and by I reached Baiona, found my hotel and had lunch. I bumped into the previous three in the city. They were however continuing to the next destination, I think Vigo, the same day.

Since I had the afternoon free, I decided to do my laundry. There I met a young Romanian couple who were glad to come across the laundry; they had been washing their clothes in hotel sinks. I helped them with the coin machine procedures. They were the present-day young face of Romania, looking outwards to Europe and the world.

Laundry done, I treated myself to a gelato.

At dusk I took myself for a walk around the gorgeous harbour. This is Montreale, the fort.

A bit closer up. I didn't visit it.

Fishing is the other major industry.

The long jetty. More on that shortly.

Back in the vicinity of the fort and panning towards the south.

Looking towards the sunset in the southwest.

A panorama of this corner of Baiona.

Back at the jetty, there is a plaque commemorating the return of the first ship from the European discovery of the New World, making Baiona the first place to receive the news.

Tours of the replica are offered and there is an annual celebration.

Touring done, I went for dinner at a pizzeria that was highly recommended. It indeed lived up to its reputation. I had made sure to have lots of water at hand back at the hotel.